Xi'an

Xi'an

Xi'an was the capital of China for 1,100 years and the eastern terminus of the Silk Road. Thirteen dynasties ruled from here, and the city's 14 km Ming wall still stands intact around the old town — you can cycle the whole loop in about 90 minutes.

An hour east of the city lies the Terracotta Army: some 8,000 life-size soldiers, buried in 210 BC and only rediscovered by farmers digging a well in 1974. How you see it matters — arrive late afternoon as the coaches leave, and the largest archaeological site in the world becomes almost private.

Don't miss

• The Terracotta Army in the late-afternoon lull, with an archaeology guide
• Cycling the full 14 km circuit of the Ming city wall
• The Muslim Quarter's food streets after dark — lamb skewers, biangbiang noodles
• The Great Mosque, built in 742 AD in Chinese architecture with Islamic function
• The Shaanxi History Museum, one of the best in the country
• The Big Wild Goose Pagoda and, optionally, a Tang-dynasty dinner show

How long do you need?

Two nights is enough for the Terracotta Army, the city wall, the Muslim Quarter and one museum. Three if you want to add Huashan or a slower pace.